Settling In

Tuesday, July 9th

Tomorrow marks exactly one month in Africa.

Although I still have a lot to learn, I feel like I’m finally starting to adjust to my new life here. Though I could do it more eloquently, I’ve chosen to just list out some of the things I’m experiencing here:

Our dog, Milo, is now my best friend. It only took a couple of chicken bones to win his affection.

People have stopped shouting ‘YOVO!’ (foreigner) at me when I walk around the village. I have actually made a few friends that I see and chat with consistently.

I have discovered the abundance of avocados, mangoes, and pineapple here. When I leave my host family to live alone for two years, these will make up the majority of my diet. I’m picking up a few recipes from my host mom, but I’ll be dependent on these quick fixes when I don’t feel like spending an hour with my charcoal stove.

My digestive system is functioning properly once again.

I love when it rains! I have a tin roof over my room and retreating inside of it is the only time the noise here gets drowned out. From 4am until 10pm, there’s shouting, drums, roosters, babies crying, motos honking, and radios and televisions blaring. I have to admit, it’s much less peaceful here than I had imagined. And yes, my house right now has electricity. Although this may sound very exciting, it only adds to the consistent sound. I’m having to adjust the majority of the expectations I had coming here.

I’ve finished one book: Into the Wild. Cliché, I know. My “big” sent it to me in the mail a few days ago and I couldn’t put it down. Now, onto War and Peace. That one should also only take me a couple of days…

I have a mountain bike to ride around on. Along with my previous knowledge of how to change a tire, I can also fix/replace a chain, grease brake and derailleur cables, and change break pads. All of which I learned how to do in French.

I’ve had roaches and spiders on my face. Wasps have been stuck in my hair. And flies orbit my head nonstop.

We visited the Marché last week to practice bargaining in French. I was able to buy a pagne and had it made into a traditional dress. One of many more to come. I also bought a grass mat to use for yoga since I failed to pack one.

Here, it’s custom to say hi to EVERYONE you see on the street. Every single person. If you don’t say “Bonjour”, “Bonsoir”, or “Waezolo”, you are thought to be extremely rude. Even if you see that person four times that day, you better say hi every time. I’m struggling with this. I’m used to keeping to myself with my headphones in as per habit of walking around campus.

In addition to the dance moves I mentioned in a previous post, I’ve discovered some other past times to share with my siblings and the neighborhood kids: juggling, rock-paper-scissors tournaments, and hangman. There’s also my consistent use of pictionary and charades to make up for my lack of language. My brother taught me a hopping game where you try to push the other over and I showed him yoga poses.

Although I’m far from fluent, my French has improved dramatically. We have language classes up to 5 hours a day and one-on-one tutoring twice a week. After mastering a certain level of French, I will be able to move onto Kabie – my local language for my new post.

Right, new post.

I have been assigned my village of service for two years starting in August. I will be in Keremida in the Kara region of Togo. It is just off the border of Benin. My focus will be on family planning and child nutrition. I’ll have a post later on dedicated to the details once I know more.

Along with my location, I’ve learned a bit about my living situation. The Peace Corps has started placing volunteers in compounds for safety reasons. This means I will have my own building, but fenced in with other buildings occupied by other people. From what I’ve been told, I know this includes a vendor and his family and a priest. I will also have electricity here, but no cell service. My village is 30 minutes from Kara, my regional capital, so I can go there whenever I need to restock on stuff and use the internet.

As I’m sure anyone could imagine, there are some days that I’m really excited to be here, and there are others where I miss my family and friends more than anything. The people are what have made it so enjoyable thus far. Spending time and having fun with my family, my teachers, and the neighborhoods kids without great verbal communication gives me confidence that I will continue to feel more at home here as my language skills develop. Also, some of the health sessions we’ve had have really made me look forward to my future work. This past week we gave a practice session to a group of teenage girls about HIV/AIDS prevention and family planning. It was so rewarding to feel you were making an impact and empowering them to take responsibility for their bodies and their health. There are also parts I’m really nervous about. Togo has a patriarchal society and there will be many times my guidance and skills will not be accepted because of that fact. I know that will be one of my greatest challenges.

I’m slowly accepting that my college life in Austin is part of the past now. I think back on all the memories I have and am overcome with immense appreciation, joy, and also sadness. It was an incredible chapter of my life and a very very hard one to close. I will awkwardly take this opportunity to thank anyone reading this that was a part of it. Love you and miss you all.

I look forward to the day that I am that happy here.

This will be my last past for several weeks. In the next one, I’ll be able to tell you more about my post and future work. I get to visit it in two weeks!

Here’s to the next chapter!

Shea

Girl's Got Moves

Sunday, June 16^th

First off, I got my luggage back!! It was filled with tiny insects, but that’s beside the point – all of my things are back in my possession!! The clothes would have been replaceable, but I am very relieved to have my sketchbook, incense, Aladdin lamp, and Christmas candles.

Now that that’s been announced, on to the more exciting news:

I met my host family today!

I was really nervous because my French is proving to be pretty atrocious and all I can say in Ewe is “what is your name?”, “my name is…”, “good morning”, and “welcome”. I was afraid the lack of communication would put my host family at more of a disadvantage for getting to know me.

Not the case.

Our vans were welcomed into the village with our families lining the streets and clapping for us. Immediately following, we were walked inside and shown to where a group was playing music and dancing. They would grab certain volunteers and pull them into the middle to dance.

It was discovered shortly, that I dance in a way satisfactory to people here in Togo.

Everyone was cheering and laughing. Throughout the remainder of the afternoon, people would come up to me and say “Dansez tres bien!”

When I was introduced to my host mom and dad, they too complimented my moves. I then learned I had a host brother and sister who were also amused. When the band started the music, they would take me to the middle to dance again.

After the celebration, we each left with our individual families. The home I’m staying in is actually separated into several small buildings surrounded by a tall fence. I have my own little building, stocked with a mosquito net and water filter. My mama and papa have a building, as well as my brother and sister. There’s also a building for cooking and the shower. In the middle of the courtyard is a straw hut to hang out under. We have a dog named Milo that took and immediate disliking to me, along with any other living being that walks into the courtyard.

They are working so hard to make me feel at home. They cooked for me and won’t let me carry anything. They also encourage me to leave my shoes on, although each of them takes theirs off before going inside.

Another notable experience for the day: my first bucket bath. I wrapped myself in my shower pagne, which is a vibrant, patterned cloth here in Africa that you can make clothes from and, apparently, dry off with. I took my bucket, filled it with well water, and proceeded to the outdoor, closed in shower area. Using a bowl with a handle, you pour one scoop over your head. You then soap up all at once, and use the remaining water to rinse off. During my bucket bath, I could look up at the open sky and see the stars. I think I could definitely get used to this. I returned to my little house rewrapped in my pagne and continued to dry off with the regular towel I brought.

After freshening up, I hung out with my family. Though still struggling a bit with the language barrier, my brother and sister and I decided to share music and dances with each other.

I taught them how to Dougie.

And learned that even in Togo, they love Michael Jackson.

We each took turns demonstrating our best movies and could not stop laughing. I’m being reminded that you don’t need language to enjoy the company of others. I’m also being reminded that I’m a white girl from south Texas because every dance move of mine they mimic looks ridiculous. I’m looking forward to bringing a little somethin somethin back to the states.

Tomorrow, I will begin my official CHAP training. I’ll give you all an update soon.

Thanks for reading.

Keep dancing,

Shea

Ups and Downs

I’m going to start posting the times that I write these because there will be occasions where I won’t be able to post it until days, or even weeks, later.

Friday, June 14^th

I’ve been in the Peace Corps for about 4 days now. 1 full day in Togo.

Some things have gone exceptionally well. Some… not so well.

Per usual, we will start with the below average occurrences first:

Half of my luggage did not arrive with us in Togo.

The malaria pills are not my favorite - as in they make me light-headed and shaky.

I got locked inside my own room at the hostel we are staying at. Twice.

Babies are very prevalent here in Togo. I don’t like babies.

I was strongly cautioned to not wear my contacts because there have been rare occasions of eye amoebas.

I almost got ran over by a moto. I literally had to jump out of the way.

Upsides:

Five other volunteers also have luggage missing, so a report was filed and hopefully they will be here by Sunday.

I only have to take these malaria pills for 12 more days before I switch to a different one. We start off on these because they are effective immediately while the others take more time.  Being instantly protected from malaria is well worth the less than pleasant side effects.

I got out of my room..

I have begun to find myself more attracted to Togolese babies. I have yet to hear one cry and when they are tied to their mothers’ backs with just their feet hanging out, I get all warm and fuzzy inside.

The Peace Corps has an excellent medical staff here in Togo and our health and safety is their number one priority. Although I’m stubborn about my contact lenses, I appreciate their strong concerns. It’s a relief to know that no matter what happens, I will be well tended to health wise.

The motos in Lome are always going to scare me.  This occurrence was just a reminder to be more cautious than usual. There’s no pedestrian “right of way” here. Also, I’ll most likely be stationed in a small village and the risk of being run over by anything other than a herd of goats will be minimized.

And naturally, there’s more good than bad.

I’m learning more about the CHAP program that I will be working under for my two years. I will have opportunities to work in a local clinic, teach health education at the village’s secondary school, and get to travel occasionally with local health organizations. I’ll let y’all know more about my actually duties as a hear more, but all of these options are very exciting.

I already really enjoy the company of everyone in my “stage”. I guess the Peace Corps attracts a certain kind of person and I am not disappointed. I can’t wait to get to know everyone and serve with them over the next two years.

The food is amazing.

I’ll never feel comfortable buying anything in the United States again because it is so cheap here!

That’s all for now. This is starting off harder than I had anticipated. I honestly expected the struggles to come after being alone in my own village. However, every negative experience has been countered with far more positive ones. I think that’s going to become an ongoing theme with my Peace Corps service. The bad is inevitable, but the good is what makes you stick it out.

Also, I meet my host family for my two months of training in a couple days! A post to come on that soon.

Shea